Thursday, February 28, 2013

Mumbai day 3: Dharavi


As YHF challenged me to see the slums, I booked the trip with Reality Tours (http://realitytoursandtravels.com/) and set off to see the biggest slum of Asia. With the image that Slumdog Millionaire engraved in every foreigner of extreme poverty mixed with „don't stop your car at a red light here” image, I was about to experiance the enterprenourship and sense of community that I have not seen before. Lonely Planet says not to go there on your own, but I now know it's not for safety, but you will never deepdive into the 50cm wide dark alleys on your own, or witness the small scale industrialism. Out of respect for the privacy and work of locals, pictures were not allowed.

One would think that people living in Dharavi don't do anything and live from what they steal. This is a totally wrong image. Instead the business activities bring 665mln USD revenue every year. The area does have the population density of arnd 5700 ppl/sq km. It's a city within a city. There are all amenities one would expect form any city: electricity, running water, cinemas, hospitals or even private doctors. And it's not only the uneducated poor that live here, but also the white collar workers who refuse to move out of their community. Here, muslims, hindu and tamil work together and live together (not exactly – they have their separate districts in the living area).

In the industrial area, the recycle business is very well established, with plastic-crushing machines, aluminium furnices and cutting devices designed, made and used in Dharavi only. Nowadays, most of people working here come from villages from all around India, to supplement the agricultural earnings with industrial weges. Workers here earn something close to 150 Rp a day, work in toxic environment and have no union rights. The textile or leather factories are what you'd imagine a sweatshop to be. FYI, this is where LeeCooper makes it's leather jackets (so the guard says). Life expectancy of Dharavi inhabitants: 50-55 years. Workers here do not wear protective gloves or glasses, but not because they are not given any, but rather it's too hot in them. They say, they value money more than their health. Despite the difficult conditions, people are very friendly and welcomed us with a smile. The living quarters may be small and congested, but each and every one has a TV – one of the basic need of Indians (so the guard says).

The NGO that runs the travel agency does an amazing job teaching youth English and soft skills. They have a day care and run several artistic programs like dance or photography classes. If you want to get involved and volunteer, please google Reality Gives organisation.

On our way back, we stopped by the famous Dobby Ghaut - Mumbai's loundry district. Apparently, if you give your dirty stuff for washing, it is bound to pass through this place.


1 comment:

  1. I love it, it seems that you like to move out from your comfort zone and discover another realities ;)...

    Did you buy a postcard here?

    Anonymous

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